Date: 22/9/2024
Trip leader: Bruce Stafford
Party: Ali, Brusk, Bryan, Chloe, Fredo, Johnston, Jonathan, Kevin, Lei, Milly, Ruiqi(Rickie), Stella, Theo, Tim, Xiwen, Yiwen, Zelu
Umina – Pearl Beach – Patonga Walk SUNDAY 22nd September.
We had a fine mostly sunny day for this walk, and 16 members arrived off the train at Woy Woy Station, with Rickie and Ali driving up separately in their own cars. The train was a bit late, and I needed time to get everyone together and giving them a briefing about what we were doing. Therefore I decided to let the 10.14am Umina bus go, and went for the 10.30am bus which would take us much closer to the south end of Umina Beach, where the walk would start; time loss would be only 5 minutes. This later bus also benefited Chloe who had to get the next (Newcastle) train from Central, and it arrived at Woy Woy just 2 minutes before the bus left. A dash down the stairs got her to the bus just in time.
On arrival at the south end of Umina Beach, we met up with Rickie and Ali, and I checked to see if the rock platform further along would be safe to cross, as a very high tide was due. It was not safe, so we walked up Patonga Drive for about 250 metres, including a 100 metre section where there is no footpath so care has to be taken to walk as far left as possible (even the section of footpath which is there is quite rudimentary). Then we left the road to walk to a lookout over Umina Beach and the entrance to Brisbane Water. It was here that I realised I had left my SLR camera at home. Fortunately, Rickie had brought along her own SLR camera (normally she doesn’t), so Rickie became the “official” photogapher for the walk, with eight contributions from Iris as well.
After a group photo and admiring the extensive views south over Lion Island (a penguin reserve) and Pittwater, we walked along the track around the base of Mount Ettalong headland, which was once the road to Pearl Beach before it was washed into the sea. A short scramble down a side track brought us to the north end of Pearl Beach. The sand here is coarser than sand found on most other beaches, and also has occasional streaks of dark mineral sands which contain titanium among other elements. The walk along Pearl Beach took us to a shady area at the south end (and also is the only place on the beach where it is safe to swim) where we had a water break as it was getting quite warm by then.
To get to Crommelin Arboretum from the Beach I did something different this time compared to previous walks here. Instead of walking along Crystal Avenue, I led the group along Tourmaline Avenue to the tennis courts next to which the rear entrance track into the Arboretum starts. This track winds its way under shady trees and we came to an open area with two Wollemi Pines growing (https://blog.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/the-legendary-wollemi-pine/
See Rickie’s photos. there are also several native bee hives there as well. These bees are very tiny and do not sting. Something unusual to see.
Then we continued walking through the Arboretum to reach Crystal Avenue, on the way seeing Macrozamia plants, which originate from the time of the dinosaurs and have not changed since. Then right to the end of this road where also is located Sydney University’s Biological Field Station. From here a rough and vague bush track starts. We had only gone a short distance along it when we saw a large Goanna (Lace Monitor) which at first kept very still, then headed for a tree when it realised it had been spotted. Goannas usually try to hide up and behind trees because for millenia they have been on the menu for First nations people, and it probably thought we wanted it for lunch!
After the Goanna we continued along this vague track which gradually climbed up through the bush. It is thought to be an old horse track to Patonga, and there are a couple of places where stones have been set above some steep slopes to support the track, so maybe that is true. Then it makes a steep left turn to go up a short way to the top of the ridge, and then meets up with the Pearl Beach Fire Trail. On the way another smaller Goanna was seen high up in a tree.The Fire Trail continues towards Patonga on a gradual climb for some time until reaching the short side track on the left to Warrah Lookout where a break was requested. Warrah Lookout give fine views over the Hawkesbury Estuary, Palm Beach and Barrenjoey Head and Lighthouse. Patonga can be seen around the corner.
From Warrah Lookout we returned back to the Fire Trail, and after about another halk a km we arraived at the track branching off left to go down to Patonga. It stays on a gently downeard gradient until suddenly reaching the edge of the hill where it starts to drop down rather more steeply in more densely wooded landscape. On this section we were overtaken by some runners on some sort of fun run, and we found out later what it was. This track is an odd choice for a fun run as it is very narrow in several places, and rough. Anyway we continued down the track, occasionally pulling over to allow fun-runners pass us, until we came to the strand of sand at Patonga. Because the tide was at maximum height, we detoured around the water and then onto the boat ramp area. Here we found the reason for the “Fun Run”; see Rickie’s photo of the Fun Run organisers’ tents etc.
Then it was on to the Cricket Ground pavilion for lunch. I cooked up some eggs (again), and yes, one was a “today” egg! Ali had to buy some lunch, and as predicted, cost $20 for fish and chips (Patonga is geting rather trendy as it is becoming popular with people coming over on the ferry from even trendier Palm Beach). The Pavilion has a tap where people can top up water bottles, which is handy.
After lunch we set off again for Pearl Beach. This time the tide had gone out enough so that we could walk straight across the sand to the steps marking the start of the track back. What goes down, must go back up! So up and up we went on this rather steep section which rises just over 120 metres altitude over a distance of about 600 metres, so fairly steep. Again we pulled over to let some more Fun Runners past us. Then the track’s gradient became more gently upwards until coming to its intersection with the Pearl Beach Fire Trail. From here on it was a straightforward mostly downhill walk to Crystal Avenue at Pearl Beach. Near its end there is a nice cave and overhang to admire.
Walking along Crystal Avenue there is a piano inside a shelter beside the road, on which three of our talented members gave an impropmtu concert! Then it was on to the Beach. We arrived there at 3.30pm, leaving almost half an hour spare for a swim by some before the bus came. “Wildwaks” quotes 1 hour 45 minutes to walk from Patonga to Pearl Beach; we did it in 1 hour and 15 minutes, and we did not rush.
The water was quite cold, so the swimmers didn’t stay in for long. We took the bus back to Woy Woy, and Rickie, Ali and Milly got off near the south end of Umina Beach where their cars were parked. Their adventure was not quite over, however, as when they got off the bus they almost stepped on a dead snake. Judging by Rickie’s photo of it, it apprears to have been run over on the road. It looked like it was an Eastern Brown Snake, the World’s second most venomous land snake, and a large one, too. Kookaburras would ,no doubt, later take advantage of this roadkill.
Speaking of venomous creatures, do not get too close to Goannas; they will attack if cornered, and their saliva is apparently venomous. That’s why I call them “snakes with legs”, and these monitors are the only lizards with forked tongues like a snake has.
We arrived at Woy Woy Station 10 minutes before the train back to Sydney was due. I said goodbye to the others as their train left, and I got my own train 15 minutes after that.
Everyone was very happy with the walk.
I was asked how soon can they expect me to bring some home-grown bananas on a walk. The short answer is: I don’t know. The bananas I have are taking a long time to ripen. Maybe still a few weeks away from being ripe renough to eat.
A couple of people called in sick in the morning (I always allow for that in assessing how many can come), but there were three people who were total “no shows”. I had enquiries from a couple of people about joining the walk if vacancies became available, so if those three had advised me in advance that they were not coming, then I could have taken people in their place. If you are a “no show” you may well be put on “reserve” on future walks and not guaranteed a place, or maybe not accepted at all if you are a serial offender.
Photos below are by Rickie, except the eight by Iris (marked as such).
Bruce Stafford.
Wildwalks website about this walk: http://wildwalks.com/bushwalking-and-hiking-in-nsw/brisbane-water-national-park/patonga-to-pearl-beach.html
